Nay, verily, eagle-eyed readers will have picked out a few resistors on the top and two embarrassing little red-wire Xes at the connectors. The alert reader will note that the photo doesn’t match the rest of the images. This is sort of the silkscreen for the top and bottom, both together: the backwards stuff goes on the bottom side. CopperĪnd the placement info showing where the parts wind up. Remember that the top copper is flipped left-to-right here so it comes out properly after toner-transfer imaging. I’ll eventually reinforce them with some epoxy, never fear.Īctual-size copper images. The FTDI Basic connects through header pins and the Arduino connects through female header sockets, both soldered sideways to the top of the board. I used fancy screw-machine IC socket pins, just because I had some, but you could solder the isolators directly to the board. The layout puts the DIP isolators on the top and the SMD resistors on the bottom. The schematic is pretty simple: two bits in, two bits out. So this is a quick-and-dirty circuit to see if optical isolation will reduce the problem enough to be bearable. In fact, just touching the USB cable’s shield to the FTDI Basic USB-to-serial adapter would bring the noise. Also, if you have a 96/24 sound card with 4, 8 or more channels, it will also require USB High speed mode.It turns out that attaching some, but not all, of the PCs around here to the Arduino Pro board controlling the Totally Featureless Clock cause the WWVB receiver to drown in a sea of noise.
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