This is perfectly normal and as the engine cools, vacuum in the radiator should draw coolant back in from the overflow tank as the coolant hose should be full of coolant. What occurred was as the engine got up to temperature, expansion caused some coolant to be leave the radiator and flow into the overflow tank. It had us confused since we had just replaced the head gasket and water pump. Coolant in the radiator would be low, overflow tank was high. By the third ride, the bike would start misfiring, effectively, from overheating. Starting with a full radiator, the first two rides were always fine. He's my story with this this hose had a pin hole on my brother's Pegaso. When you take the cap off, make sure the rubber gasket is properly aligned and not blocking the vent and drain holes.Īs for a damaged coolant return hose (between the radiator cap and overflow tank), it can cause a hard-to-diagose issue easily confused with the common heat gasket failure or faulty radiator cap. The other 3 are simply decorative but leaving them out will not help vent as the threaded holes in the tank will not vent the fuel. You are correct, only the 3 longer screws secure the cap to the tank. Once sorted, I find our Pegasos thoroughly reliable. Makes sense to do every other year, I'd estimate. You've reminded me to recheck my tank vents during my winter maintenance. If the bike the runs excellent upon restarting, the tank vent is likely the culprit. Quickly stop and open the gas cap, allowing the fuel tank pressure to equalize. The easiest way to determine if the tank vent is your issue is to ride the bike until is starts to falter. This should leave a thin film of oil that should slow the return of any corrosion. Once both of these passages are free and open, I suggest running some light oil through these ports, blowing out the excess with compressed air again. Be sure to place a rag in the tank opening to prevent debris from entering you tank. Before doing so, i recommend you open or, better yet, remove the fuel cap assembly. Now that you have loosened up the corrosion with a drill bit, I suggest clearing out the vent and drain with compressed air (such as using a bicycle pump) injected in from the bottom nipples. Both of theses nipples are connected to curved piping internal to the tank and may be the reason you cannot run a wire through. The other is the drain/overflow for the cap recess. As you have noticed, one of the nipples is the tank vent. The corrosion blocking the tank vent is primarily in the aluminium nipples since they are raw, unfinished metal. I know some of you have done this and if there's a quick way I'm all ears.All opinions are welcome, especially from anyone who know what I am going through.Īlso if there's anyone with a rectifier for sale, original or CBR600.in case the clear vent doesn't work.I would be interested in it.again. so is there another way that doesn't involve the front end coming off again and tank removal etc.very sick of that now, too.? I spent 20 minutes twisting a small drill bit by hand ( fingers have the blisters to prove this.) up inside the vent nipple and I got a bit of chalky powder out but it still won't take a wire up or down through it. because the bike often stops in the middle of the road.I'm getting sick of this bit.I get the physics involved and I'm confident that clearing the solid, chalky stuff from the vent will restore my street cred and make me almost like my bike again.but. I am pretty sure this is holding back the fuel and causing me to look silly in the middle of roundabouts and corners. That tiny fuel vent inside the petrol cap.it's blocked at the bottom. Here's a simple one, or so you would think.
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